The day of our departure began with another early rise for a delicious cooked breakfast at 8.30 and check out by 10. Our presence was not required at the ferry terminal until 12.50, so we spent the morning enjoying the sun which the island was bathed in. We took a short walk along the waterfront, to watch the ferry docking and unloading on its way past to Tiree, the same boat which would later be returning to collect us. Returning to the centre of Arinagour, we enjoyed coffee-time at the Island Cafe, which in my case entailed a lovely cup of earl grey and a cream scone, before wandering slowly back to the car, pausing briefly to buy two ice-creams at the local shop, then driving down to the ferry terminal to board MV Lord of the Isles.
Arinagour in the sun
North down the sound of mull?!
The ferry journey proved to be a most interesting one. At dinner in the hotel the previous night we had been examining with interest the admiralty charts of the area which were on the wall, in particular the fact that they, at several points, contained the words “local magnetic anomaly”. One such marking was in the sound of Mull, down which we were to sail today. With this in mind I had been sure to see that we brought a compass on board with us, and as we came down the sound we watched it intently, making sure that our heading was still reported as south-east. I stopped to adjust my binoculars and, looking back at the compass, couldn’t believe my eyes to see we were travelling north. The family gathered round with interest as we discussed this development and I took a couple of photos to ensure I had proof to present here. Soon, the needle swung around to point in what appeared to be the correct direction again, and we returned our attention to the rest of the voyage. We saw several nice boats travelling down the sound, in particular a lovely Dutch rigged ship and another nice ship moored in Tobermory harbour flying a flag which was too far away and limp for me to properly identify.
That's better...
As we enjoyed a cup of tea in the ship’s cafeteria, timed to coincide with a particularly black cloud unloading its rain above us, my binoculars were demanded at the window. A fin, of the same kind we had seen twice during the week, was swimming past us in the water. Almost as soon as I had found it, the captain helpfully announced that anyone interested would be able see a Basking Shark off the starboard side. It was great to finally have a positive identification of the same fins we had been watching earlier in the week.
As we neared the end of the sound, we spotted 2 dolphins or porpoises swimming beside us in the opposite direction. We watched as they slid gracefully into the distance. The MV Isle of Mull sailed past us on its way – I presume – to the Western Isles, providing excellently framed photos with the black clouds behind. Not long afterwards we spotted a whole school of the same sea mammals in Oban harbour, pursued, amicably I hope, by several people in kayaks.
The journey north from Oban was a slow one, partly due to the camper-vans we found ourselves stuck behind on two separate occasions. However, from Fort Augustus all the way up the glen was mostly smooth, albeit wet, driving, and we soon found ourselves in Inverness, where we would spend the remainder of the week.
It had been a lovely week, one I hope to remember for years to come, not least because of the great photos I took. I highly recommend a trip to Tiree to anyone interested in a short island break – it is a beautiful island, and one which reminded me, as I think we all need to be from time to time, how much in love with Scotland I am.
Oban harbour
